Chandra Bhaga group, Indian Himalayan
Tara Pahar (CB10) 6227m attempt by a new route from east, attempt of the peak Pagoda EE ~5750m and ascents of Point Daund 5565m and Hora East peaks

Our expedition consisted of 6 members from Greece, Dr. Nikolas Kroupis, Christophoros Kouniakis, Dimitris Titopoulos, Manolis Loudaros, Ioannis Kovanidis and Polychronis Sioulas and Sudipto Pal from India. We flew from Athens to Delhi on July 2nd and the following day we reached Manali by mini bus and stayed there for the night. The next morning we left with our cook Ranjeet Negi and his helper Yograj Thekur to reach Batal at 3900m where we stayed for 2 nights. On July 6th we trekked from Batal together with 11 horses which were caring our luggage. First we crossed the stream which is coming from CB13a and CB14 glacier and in three hours we reached the area of Dakka. The stream which is coming from North and South Dakka glaciers is wide and impetuous, and we wouldn't have been able to cross it without the help of a wire rope placed there many years ago, without anyone knowing by whom. People and luggage used the wire rope to cross the stream, while horses tried to pass through it. One of the horses was nearly swept away by the flow.


The first plan was to approach the mountains from Samudar Tapu glacier, from where the previous expeditions approached the region. After crossing the Dakka stream we chose to move along the riverside of Chandra, crossing parts of the river for about 4.5 Km north from Dakka, until we could not continue any farther (4090m), because then we would have to cross the main stream of the river. So we turned left and climbed on the left side slopes. About 100 meters higher there is a small plateau with spring water where a shepherd keeps his sheep and goats, and there we made camp. Sioulas was pretty sick, so we decided to remain in our camp for the next day. On that day, Kovanidis with our helper climbed higher in order to find a possible route to reach the high peaks from the eastern side, because the horses would not be able to move on the Samadur Tapu glacier according to the shepherds guidelines. So, our primary plan complete changed and we chose to approach the peaks from the east, where no other expedition ever attempted before according to the references. Sioulas unfortunately got worst and decided to return to Greece with the help of our cook. On July 8th we left our camp and climbed about 400 meters higher, where we reached two huge green plateaus. The first was at about 4600m altitude and the second at 4800m and we called it Hora Padra (Green plateau), since there are no names according to the shepherds. We crossed the plateaus and made our Base Camp at the height of 4865m and about 3.5Km from the glacier east of the peaks of Tara Pahar and Minar. From BC we had nice view to many peaks which were not noted in the maps except from the highest once. Also the glacier was unnamed, so we called it Sheta Padra (White plateau) due to the enormous flat shape and the white color. During the next days explorations, we estimated that the size of the glacier is about 5Km long and 1.5Km wide with altitude which varies between 5100m and 5500m.


On July 10th Kroupis, Kovanidis and Pal left BC and reached the glacier at 5150m. In order to get better view of the high peaks of the mountain, Kroupis and Kovanidis continued climbing on the left side snow covered slopes (45 degrees) and following the ridge, they reached a rocky point which they called Daund (Tooth) 5565m. The same day, Kouniakis and Titopoulos climb the peak which we call Hora East ~5250m which is located Southwest of BC, from where they have very good views to the surround peaks. The next day, Kouniakis, Titopoulos and Loudaros left early in the morning from BC following the previous dayís route to the glacier and turning right, they crossed the glacierís stream. From there they started climbing the long and partly snow covered slopes and they reached the ridge, which extends east from Pagoda peak. Following the ridge they climbed from east to west, attempting a peak located east of Pagoda. Between that peak and Pagoda there was one more peak, so we called the climbed peak Pagoda East East (EE) with altitude about 5750m. They did not continue to Pagoda EE peak because the ridge was narrow and they have already spent a lot of time. Such they turned back and finally arrived at BC late in the evening after more than 12 hours of climbing. Undoubtedly, this was the first attempt of the peak Pagoda EE since there have been no attempts from Samadur Tapu glacier and Sheta Padra glacier before. On July 12th Kroupis and Kovanidis left BC reached Sheta Padra glacier and then tried to cross it in order to approach Tara Pahar peak. The lower part of the glacier had no crevasses and they continued straight to the peak, but at an altitude of approximately 5325m they found many snow covered crevasses. They turned back and crossed the glacier at a lower altitude, passing to the right side, where they made camp at 5236m. At midnight they left their camp and continued climbing on the right side of the glacier and after 2 hours (2.5Km), they reached the bottom of the southeast couloir of Tara Pahar. They climbed the snow couloir with had 40-55 degrees incline and led to the east ridge of the peak at 6031m (route graded as D, 800m). A huge serac was overhanging from the south side of the ridge. They climbed from the north side of the ridge but had to stop at 6088m because the snow was very deep and unstable and there was great danger of causing an avalanche. Rappelling they returned to the glacier and their camp where they spent the rest of the night, and the next morning returned to BC. Kouniakis, Titopoulos and Loudaros went back to Batal and the rest remained at BC for 5 more days but the worsening of the weather prevented them from trying to reach other nearby peaks. On July 19th they left BC and the next morning reached Batal and next day Manali. On July 25th the team flew back to Greece.