Attempt of the unclimbed peak Nya Kangri 6480m from north side


Our small team consisted of Giorgos Margaritis, Petros Tolias and me. The aim was to climb in alpine style the unclimbed peak Nya Kangri located in Sesar Kangri group west of Arganglas glacier, India. We arrived at Leh on 16/8/2016 and before visiting Nubra valley, we climbed Stok Kangri 6123m on 21/8/2016 for acclimatization into only four days. Nya Kangri was previously attempted in 2008 from the south side, up to 5800m, by an India expedition[1]. On 25th August we traveled by jeep to Sumur village in Nubra valley and we started our trek the same afternoon from the monastery at 3250m. Crossing the thick forest behind the monastery, we camped at 3340m. On the next morning we trekked up the steep and loose slopes of the right bank of the river up to the old castle (3900m). It was quite hard to traverse the slope of the gorge in order to reach Mal (4100m). Here, there is small a forest and a cave, where we pull through from the noon rain. Over 4300m, the valley gets gradually more smooth and flat. We made the first camp on 4500m and the next day continued up to the lake which is created by the moraine of the Nya’s north side glacier (5010m). Crossing the river, we scaled on the moraine of the north glacier which is consisted by huge rocks and deep gaps, making the access to the glacier very hard. At the higher point of the moraine, after 1800m long distance, and at altitude 5335m we found a rock, flat from the up side, where we camped. The next morning we entered into the fresh snow covered glacier. At noon, a strong snowfall starts, such we stopped and camped at 5570m into the middle of the glacier. In the afternoon when the snowfall stopped, we did a reconnoitered climb up to the col of the glacier at 5820m, and we identified the possible route to the summit. East of the col, there is an ice slope (about 50-60 degrees) which leads to the SSW ridge of Nya Kangri (>6000m). The first part of the ridge is rocky and continues with snow/ice up to the summit. This is possibly the best route to the summit. On 29/8/2016 the weather was not good but we climbed up to the upper side of the glacier and camped at 5810m. A heavy snowfall started and continued until the next morning, covering our tent with 40cm of fresh snow. Due to avalanche danger and to lack of supplies, we decided to give up on our attempt. We descend from the high camp and returned back to Sumur village after 11 hours of continues trekking, late in the afternoon. Returning back to Leh, we had a few days remains before our flight back, so we visited lake Tsomoriri (village Korzok) and climbed on Mentok peaks, pushing a camp on 5630m the first day, and summiting the peaks Mentok I 6282m, Mentok II 6248m and Mentok III 6153m. The third day (3/9/2016) we returned to Korzok. We left from Leh on 7th September. All the ascents and attempts were made in alpine style without any support of porters, horses, cookers and guides.


Nikolas Kroupis

Hellenic Alpine Club of Komotini

[1] American Alpine Journal 2009, Vol. 51, Issue 83, p 288.