2006 - Expedition to Mountain Tirich Mir
Tuesday 25 July 2006: Flight from Athens to Islamabad via Bahrein
We woke up in Tsiantos' house, where we slept the last night in Greece. We packed our equipments and Pavlos transported our equipment to the airport with his jeep, while we went by bus. We tidied up a lot of packagges in the airport. Finally we checked in carring over 202 kilos of baggage and many hand baggages. We had a beautiful flight to Bahrain in three and a half hours. AtAthens airport, we met Taj a guy from the village Krakal in the Bumburet valley (Kalash). Taj helped us while travelling to Chitral. In Bahrain finally we had to delay many hours till the next flight to Islamabad. We finally flew to Islamabad late in the evening.
Wednesday 26 July 2006: From Islamabad to Chitral by mini-bus
We reached Islamabad many hours later than scheduled due to the delay at the airport. It was impossible to distinguish Ghulam, the person from the office Mountain Travel Agency, who hed been waiting for us for a long time. We telephoned and finally found him in a crowd of world outside the airport. With 500 rupees (8 Euros) we took a mini bus and went to the office of Ghulam. The assistant of Ghulam, Hasan helped us with a lot of things we had to finish in the capital. He carried Michalis and me with his car to exchange. Danias and Mertzanidis remained resting in the office. Then we went to the Advantures Tour Pakistan to buy a bottle of oxygen of regulator and 30 bottles of propane for our camping-gases. Also we rented a big tent in order to use it for cooking deposit. Then we went to the market in order to buy a lot of foods for the mountain and returned in the office of Ghulam. At 16:00 we left with a mini bus for Chitral. The price was big enough as we have been asked 15000 rupees , almost 200 Euros. We reached the Dir village after midnight where we had to stay in a shop till dawn when the street in the passage Lowari in 3200 m opened. At 4:00 we continued travelling to the passage. Taj, homegrown,also travelled with us in order to help us dealing.
Thursday 27 July 2006: Chitral, meeting with Razaq
It was 4 am when the vehicles travelled from Dir to Chitral. As we were tired we wanted to reach our destination. At 9:00 we arrived to Chitral and went straight to the hotel Chinnar Inn in order to rest. Later we met Razaq and registrered at the police department. The process of publication of authorisation included also an interview to the governor of the department. The afternoon we bought extra food and material for the journay.
Friday of 28 July 2006: Chitral to Shagrom village by jeep
At 7 am the weight of the equipment, loaded on the jeep, was total 450 kilos. We began our trip to Shagrom village. The route was beautifull and enjoyable. The driver (friend of Razaq) was driving slowly and made many stops in the places we prefered. As it was Friday and holiday there wasnít much movement. After the Buni village the street was very narrow and the ravines enormous. The speed of the jeep did not exceed the 20 km per hour. Despite the 8 hours journey, and the 135 kilometres covered, we didít get tired. In the valley of Tirich we stopped in order to we make registration in the police. Little later we reached in the village Shagrom and went to the camping of Razaqís brother.The vllagers gathered in the camping and we packed on the quiet the equipment in parcels of 25 kilos for the porters. They shouldnít learn that our purpose was climping but walking. Finally we setted up the kitchen tent and packed undisturbed. Razaq prepared supper with fresh eggs and finally we slept outside.
Saturday of 29 July 2006: Trekking from village Shagrom (2800m) to Sherniak (3540m)
19 porters came to the camping and shared the material and Abdulhaly, Razaqís brother, would be our cook. The material was charged in donkeys up to the settlement of Bandok in the valley. The walk was beautiful and relaxing, as we was crossed green forests in the right of the river Tirich. There was a big wooden bridge passing from the left side of river and we reached the settlement of Bandok. Then the porters load the equipment because there are no path. We needed 5 hours in total to reach up to the locality Sherniak in 3540 m where we camped. In the afternoon we went to the chutes in 3600 metres in order to acclimate. In 6 pm the supper was already prerared and in 8 pm we laid down, without setting up the tents, as it got dark.
Sunday of 30 July 2006: Trekking from Sherniak (3540m) to Shoghor Biasum (4038m)
During the night the sleeping bags got wet, cause of humidity,but fortunally we didít get sick. In 7 am the porters left while we would begin the course later. After one hour we met the glacier Lower Tirich Mir and walked on white ice. The course was very difficult, while we had to walk slowly. As we were approaching to the next camp we left the glacier and moved in the right slopes. In the locality named Shoghor Biasum (4038 m) we made the second camp in flat field. The whether was bad and it was sprinkling so we setted up the big tent and two smaller in order to stay overnight.In the afternoon we mounted up to 4200 metres for acclimatization. Danias it wasnít feeling well due to the altitude. In the evening we didnít sleep at once.
Monday 31 July 2006: Trekking from Shoghor Biasum (4038m) to Babu Base Camp (4716m)
Danias was not well during the night, and Michalis did not sleep at all so they decided to remain there for one more evening before they continue up to the basecamp. I left with the cook and the porters in 6 am directed to the basecamp. The way was difficult enough over the glacier of Upper Tirich Mir up to Isto-o-nalís basecamp (4450m). At 11:30 am we finally reached in the basecamp of Tirich Mir (4716m.), but there was no water althoug every year there was aplenty. I paid each of the porters 1600 rupees in order to run to the village. I remained with Abdulhaly in the camp which finally found water 20 metres longer through a hole in the sides of Istor-o-nal. The second problem was that the primus stove didnít function and Abdulhaly had not taken the suitable tools in order to make it work. We telephoned Razaq in order to it send an other primus stove of liquid gas from Chitral to Shagrom where Abdulhaly would take it. Finally in the afternoon he managed to make work the primus stove of kerosene and prepared the supper. The weather was very good and the view to the top of Tirich Mir was amazing.
Tuesday 1 August 2006: Alone in Base Camp waiting for my company
I waked up late in 8:00, Abdulhaly already had left to Shagrom. I still had headache. I started working in the camp till midday. I arranged the materials and setted up the tents in a better way. I started worring about my company who had not arrived yet. Finally in 17:00 they arrived exshausted after climbing for 8 hours. The situation in the camp was not good, while Michalis failed cooking with the camping-gases so we remained unfed.
Wednesday 2 August 2006: Organisation of Base Camp
We organised the camp and worked hard till midday. We made soup for dinner using the camping-gases '. In 5 pm Abdulhaly arrived with the primus stove of liquid gas and potatoes. As it was late to cook we eated frumenty. I was running in the dark to the tent, when I spurned on a rock. My hand had been damaged, and the pain made me suffer. I supposed that my hand had been broken. Mertzanidis nursed me with the oils that he had made.The pain continued during the night so I could not sleep. I had serious thoughts of leaving as my injury was serious enough. Also I thought that is impossible to continue climb higher. Danias did not sleep well during the night because he could not breath, so he decided to sleep outside the tent.