2006 - Expedition to Mountain Tirich Mir
Thursday 3 August 2006: The pain in my hand is hard - They continue higher
I was suffering and I could even wear the jacket. Mertzanidis nursed me in order to get better. Stillas, Danias and Mertzanidis left in the 8 am in order to carry some of the material upper and to find the way to the first camp. The time was bad and cloudy and there was a strong gale. In 17:00 the team returned in the camp. They finally reached up to 4850 metres, through a very difficult way.
Friday of 4 August 2006: Rest day in Base Camp
This was a day to rest in the basecam. My hand was better and I believed that the pain would abate the next days. We made plans for the next day in order to ascent up to the first camp (C1). We packed the material and the food for next camp.
Saturday of 5 August 2006: Going up to the glacier Upper Tirich Mir (5100 m)
In 5 am we directed to the glacier. The streams in the glacier did not have a lot of water and it was easy to cross them in the early morning. The ascent was difficult because the stones rolled in every step. Many hours later we reached to the point where they had left the pre-previous day the equipment in the tent. There Mihalis conceived that he had not taken the Innerboots, without which there was no future, because we could not continue without Michalis. We were already tired and walked with great difficult to the point where we would make the first camp. We made the error to go to the left side of morenas glacier. Our walk was very slow, while Mihalis had already selected a point for camping in 5100 metres. The team reached there very tired, carring havy charge, later in the afternoon. We setted up our tents and slept in order to gain our lost forces.
Sunday of 6 August 2006: Putting the First Camp at 5200 metres
Mertzanidis and me descented to the point where we had left the material (4850m) the first day in order to transport it to the new camp (C1). We took the material and in a few hours we reached 5200 m where we made C1. We went then with Mertzanidis up to 5400 metres to acclimatizate and explore the field. At the same time Mihalis would continue alone early in the morning in order to transport some of the equipment upper at the second camp. He reached finally 5700m where he setted up the tent and left the equipment. He returned late in the afternoon. Danias transported the material from the camp where we remained (5100m) in the first camp (C1) in the 5200m. Our first camp C1 in 5200 metres had been completed.
Monday 7 August 2006: Return to Base Camp
At 9:15 am we left C1 and directed to the base. Mertzanidis walked alone in the glacier and we remained stoned by his risky action. We met him fortunately lower and we continued together to the camp where we arrived at 12:45.
Tuesday 8 August 2006: Base Camp, the slaughter of goat
In order to we gain our lost forces we decided to sacrifice the goat that we had bought at the village. The male goat had been named Mpellos by Danias who insisted to keep it alive but in the morning we slaughtered it.. We passed the day in the basecamp relaxing and making plans for the next days.
Wednesday 9 August 2006: Rest day in Base Camp
We eated plenty of food because the meat couldn’t be coscerved. Giorgos Zardalidis informed us about the forecast of the weather from the satellite for the next days. The time would be good and we should begin as soon as possible.
Thursday 10 August 2006: Climbing from Base Camp to First Camp 5200 metres
In the morning we went to the first camp C1. After 4 hours of hard trekking we arrived to C1 in 5200m where we passed the night.
Friday of 11 August 2006: Ascent from First Camp to Second camp 5700m
With a big charge of material we begun from C1 through the glacier to the Second camp (C2). We reached C2 in 5700m 4 hours later. I I arrived very tired and dizzy. One more time we made the mistake to begin late. We organised C2 and we rested.
Saturday of 12 August 2006: Search of a safe route to higher
In the early morning we tried to go upper. Unfortunately the team could not move fast. After certain kilometres we returned very tired. The weather was bad and it was snowing.
Sunday of 13 August 2006: Approaching Dir Gol Zom peak
In 8:00 am we left C2 following an other way in the glacier. We ascented slowly and arrived to 6150 metres near the top Dir Gol Zom. We needed almost 5 hours to reach and 1 hour to return to the camp. The weather was bad and Giorgos informed us that the day after tomorrow the weather would be better. Unfortunately the food was enough for one more day but wouldn’t returne in any case. So we had to eat only one time during the day.
Monday 14 August 2006: Waiting for better weather
We rested in C2 while the time was not good. We waited and prepared ourselves for the next day in order to ascent in the top of Dir Gol Zom at 6778 metres.
Tuesday 15 August 2006: Attempt to peak Dir Gol Zom, reaching the altitude of 6240 metres
In 00:30 we began alltogether except Mertzanidis to the top. Mertzanidis did not feel well and he decided not to try. We walked in the deep dark jumping over the crevasse. Mihalis was walking in the front I was in the middle while Danias was the last.. When we reached at 6150 metres it was still dark we met big crevasse which we could not pass. Thus we decided to return lower and to approach the Tirich Mir West, and so we did. We descented to 6000 metres and we began to approach the West. Unfortunately the glacier was also full of crevasse. In 7:00 am we reached at 6249 metres seeing Tirich Mir and Dir Gol Zom. For one more time we were not lucky as we could not take more risk. Thus we returned, and this was the end of our effort to go upper. This year was not the best to climb because during the last winter there was not many snow because the frost. All hidden crevasse were opened. In 9 o’clock we arrived to C2 where Mertzanidis was waiting for us. We packed the material and we returned to C1. We decided to continue to the base because we had enough time. We left nothing behind us and reached at 4850 metres where we left a few material which we would use in order to try to climp up to Ghul Lasht Zom the next days. We arrived at the basecamp where the cook was waiting for us and had already prepared soup and food.
Wednesday 16 August 2006: Rest in Base Camp
During the day we were resting in the camp gaining our lost forces. The weather was good.
Thursday 17 August 2006: Organising the next attempt
This was one more resting day with a lot of food of boiled potatoes. We made the scheldule to Ghul Lasht Zom and we communicated with Razaq in order to send the redcaps to transport the material to the village.
Friday of 18 August 2006: Ascent to Ghul Lasht glacier (5400m)
Early in the morning we began directed to the top Ghul Lasht Zom. Mihalis arrived in two hours at the tent with the material which we had left in the Upper Tirich Mir when we returned from our previous effort. Danias was the last one who reached one and a half our later.
Saturday of 19 August 2006: Attempt to summit Ghul Lasht Zom
Early in the morning we began with Mihalis to the top, Danias and Mertzanidis could not continue. We followed the false way passing above a lot of bridges of glacier and jumping over many crevasse. When we reached in the south of the mountain we saw the right way, but we had already lost precious time. When we reached 6180 metres one enormous crevasse made impossible for us to continue climping. The hour was already 13:30, while the top were raised 400 metres taller so we decided to return. For one more time the mountain did not want us to step at the top. We returned fast commenting and judging the mission. In 16:00 we reached the point where we had made bivouac and we gathered the material. Then in 19:00 we reached the glacier Upper Tirich Mir in the point that we had left the material. While we were hardly 2 hours away from the camp the way was adventurus. Finally in 22:30 we arrived very tired at the camp.